Article of the week
Louis Erard Unveils the Limited-Edition Gravée Main

Since 2021, Louis Erard has been redefining the boundaries of Métiers d’Art, from Grand Feu enamel and guilloché to wood marquetry, and soon, gold wire inlay. Now, Gravée Main opens a new chapter, paying tribute to one of the oldest crafts in watchmaking hand engraving.
Gravée Main represents a new milestone in Louis Erard’s Métiers d’Art series. This limited edition of 99 unique timepieces places hand engraving at center stage, with every metal element entirely engraved and finished by hand, a meticulous process that requires more than 50 hours of work. 

Summary Waqt Picks the Top 5 Releases at Geneva Watch Days 2025

At the conclusion of the sixth edition of the fair, the largest in the event’s history

This year’s Geneva Watch Days set a new benchmark, richer and more impactful than ever before. Record attendance, standout launches, and a calendar of unifying events made the 6th edition a milestone in every respect. With more brands, retailers, journalists, collectors, and enthusiasts converging on Geneva than ever before, the week surpassed all expectations in numbers, diversity, creativity, and resonance.

For this 6th edition, 66 brands (vs. 52 in 2024) featured in the official program, drawing nearly 1,900 watch industry professionals (vs. 1,500 in 2024) to the shores of Lake Geneva. Among them were close to 300 retailers (vs. 250 in 2024) and 500 members of the media and influencers, including major news agencies and television networks.

Open to the public over four days, from Thursday, September 4 to Sunday, September 7, the Pavilion at the Rotonde du Mont-Blanc—expanded this year to 800 m²—welcomed more than 17,000 visitors (vs. 13,800 in 2024), with a peak recorded on Friday. Enthusiasts had the chance to explore the Prowess exhibition, featuring over 150 timepieces: the latest launches alongside iconic models, presented across 59 showcases in a series of themed displays.

Waqt team witnessed a wealth of new releases, from revived historic names to exciting debuts from emerging brands. As every year, the time has come for us to select the standout pieces. Here are Waqt’s Top Five Watches of Geneva Watch Days 2025.

 

De Bethune DB25xs Starry Varius

As the smallest edition of the iconic Starry Varius, the DB25, originally launched in a 44 mm case and reimagined in 2018 as a 42 mm, now evolves into a refined 40 mm format. Preserving the elegance of the original design required a complete rethinking of proportions to maintain balance and harmony. The watch showcases a remarkable titanium dial, heat-treated to achieve a unique volcanic lava-inspired hue.

You can read our full article about this watch, along with our exclusive interview with CEO Pierre Jacques, who shared the inspiration behind the creation.

 

Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’une Montre 3

This handcrafted timepiece revives one of watchmaking’s great innovations, making it a fitting masterpiece for the tenth anniversary of the brand’s revival. Limited to 10 pieces in white gold and one unique piece in steel for Phillips Auction, this edition highlights Ferdinand Berthoud’s commitment to artisanal excellence.

The watch also reintroduces an old escapement technique, which we explored in depth in our dedicated article on the model.

 

A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds

Named after Richard Lange, the grandson of Ferdinand Adolph Lange who played a key role in the brand’s revival in 1990, this watch first appeared in 2006 and now returns in a striking new interpretation.

The model features a warm 18k pink gold dial with three intersecting white sub-dials. At the top, the largest counter displays the jumping seconds, while the smaller left and right counters track hours and minutes. Red accents highlight the minute track, as well as the triangular end-of-power indicator, which turns red ten hours before depletion.

Discover our full coverage of this extraordinary watch here.

 

Gérald Genta Minute Repeater

As part of a wider renaissance across LVMH maisons, Gérald Genta continues to impress with creations that merge technical brilliance and artistic tradition. The new Minute Repeater pays tribute to the brand’s heritage while showcasing contemporary craftsmanship. This masterpiece resonates not only with exceptional sound but also with timeless elegance, transporting us to another era.

Read our full article on this horological achievement here.

 

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan

Bvlgari has partnered with celebrated Korean artist Lee Ufan to create a striking, hand-finished titanium edition. Born of a rich exchange between Lee Ufan and Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bvlgari’s Product Creation Executive Director, the watch embodies the meeting of art and watchmaking.

The design features a mirror-polished dial and intricate hand-engraving across the entire case and bracelet, turning the Octo Finissimo into a wearable work of art.

 

Read our full feature and see the details of this collaboration here.

 

These five watches represent just a fraction of the creativity on display at Geneva Watch Days 2025. Many more exceptional timepieces deserve recognition, and you can explore them all on our website, where we share comprehensive coverage of every standout debut.


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