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Watches that honoured the craftsmanship behind the most distinguished calendar complications
Watches and Wonders is the biggest annual event dedicated to watches, the place where the world’s top brands unveil what they’ve been working on. As always, Geneva was buzzing with creativity, conversations, and unforgettable encounters with watchmakers and collectors. We wandered through the halls, discovering everything from clean, minimalist designs to mind-blowing mechanical feats.
As tradition now dictates, we selected standout watches across different categories. In this article, as the title suggests, we’re shining the spotlight on three extraordinary timepieces that elevate the art of the perpetual calendar.
We begin with Patek Philippe, whose new Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date 6159G showcases the maison’s refined approach to complications. Its sapphire crystal dial, with a smoky grey-to-black gradient, reveals the intricate automatic movement beneath while maintaining remarkable legibility. A red-tipped retrograde hand sweeps across a semi-circular arc to display the date, with additional apertures at 9, 12, 3, and 6 o’clock for the day, leap year, month, and moon phase, respectively.
Encased in white gold, the 39.5 mm case (11.49 mm thick) channels the spirit of the Calatrava with its guilloché “hobnail” detailing on the bezel and caseband. Inside ticks the in-house Caliber 26-330 S QR, offering a power reserve of 35 to 45 hours. It is priced at CHF 100,000, approximately AED 448,230.
To mark its 270th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin unveiled a watch that’s as poetic as it is technically impressive: the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar. Housed in a 42 mm platinum case, 11.1 mm thick, the piece features a silver-toned, hand-guilloché dial inspired by a 1955 design, adorned with subtle Maltese cross details.
The perpetual calendar’s indicators, day, date, and month, are arranged across three subdials, with a leap year display at 2 o’clock. The show stopping tourbillon at 6 o’clock doubles as the small seconds. Powering it all is the ultra-thin automatic Calibre 2162 QP/270, just 6.55 mm thick, delivering a 72-hour power reserve. This stunning creation is limited to 127 pieces, with the price available upon request.
A. Lange & Söhne brings together two of watchmaking’s most complex complications in one breathtaking creation: the Minute Repeater Perpetual. Its minute repeater chimes with exceptional clarity, thanks to hand-tuned gongs harmonized with the platinum case. The perpetual calendar features a large date, day of the week, 24-hour display, month, leap year, and moon phase, complete with gold moons and over 100 hand-engraved stars.
The platinum case measures 40.5 mm in diameter and 12.1 mm thick. Its black enamel dial is accented by gold Roman numerals and hands, balancing classic elegance with technical brilliance. Inside beats the manually wound Caliber L122.2, offering a 72-hour power reserve. Limited to just 50 pieces, this rare marvel also comes with a price tag available upon request.
It's worth noting that the event offered far more than the three perpetual calendar watches we’ve chosen to highlight, each resonating differently depending on personal tastes, or simply the mood of the moment. These are, after all, our own curated favorites, shaped by our passion for the craft and the stories behind each piece.
However, what truly made the experience unforgettable was the shared energy, the thrill of discovery, and deep conversation we had. Being there with the Waqt team was nothing short of inspiration, and an immersive reminder of why we do what we do. We left Geneva with excitement, and with plenty of stories still untold. There are many more events on the horizon, and we’re just as eager to attend them as they are to welcome us.
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