Introducing Naissance d’une Montre 3, Ferdinand Berthoud’s Masterpiece for the Tenth Anniversary

Coinciding with the tenth anniversary of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, the presentation of Naissance d'une Montre 3 marks the realization of an ambitious dream nurtured by founder and President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. This remarkable cross-disciplinary project brought together the expertise of more than 80 artisans and specialists from Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud and Chopard to create a truly contemporary timepiece, crafted entirely by hand.

The inspiration came from Ferdinand Berthoud’s Astronomical Pocket Watch No. 3, created in the early 19th century.

The result is a series of 11 exceptional timepieces powered by a unique combination of a split bimetallic temperature-compensated Guillaume-type balance wheel and a constant-force fusée-and-chain transmission system. Each component of Naissance d'une Montre 3 was individually crafted without any digital assistance, fashioned entirely by hand or with traditional tools guided solely by the human eye, hand, and mind.

After 11,000 hours of work and six years of dedication, the first chapter of this extraordinary project is now complete. Produced exclusively for Phillips in association with Bacs & Russo in Geneva, a one-of-a-kind stainless steel edition will be auctioned in November 2025. Part of the proceeds will be donated to a charity dedicated to preserving and transmitting watchmaking savoir-faire to future generations.

The remaining 10 pieces will feature cases in 18-carat white gold, measuring 44.3 mm in diameter and 13 mm in thickness, with curved flanks, a concave bezel, welded lugs, and a wide, hand-engraved fluted crown. Shaping these complex forms with hand-operated tools is an immense undertaking. Lost-wax casting more often associated with fine jewelryة was employed to create the case middle and bezel, whose compound curves resist conventional machining. Turning, milling, and tapping provided the basic geometry, after which the parts passed to the finishing benches. The lugs were welded by hand, and the engraving and hallmarks painstakingly executed.

Like the Montre Astronomique No. 3, the hours and minutes are displayed on a sub-dial, while a lone, flame-blued central seconds hand commands attention. The fusée-and-chain transmission is positioned on the lower half of the movement. 

The hours and minutes are indicated with Roman and Arabic numerals respectively, while the raised flange at the periphery of the movement, supported by pillars carries the seconds scale. The flame-blued steel hands are exquisitely detailed: the hour hand with a bevelled tip, the minute hand with an arrow tip, and the central seconds hand, slender and elongated, sweeping with remarkable finesse.

At its heart lies the Calibre FB-BTC.FC, an inverted construction in which bridges and plates are held together by polished steel pillars. What would normally remain hidden beneath the dial instead forms the visible face of the watch. Beating at 21,600 vibrations per hour, the movement offers a 50-hour power reserve. It incorporates the spectacular fusée-and-chain system, a hallmark of Ferdinand Berthoud’s technical mastery. Remarkably, the movement is officially certified by the COSC, a demanding feat for any watch, but even more extraordinary for a hand-made calibre regulated by a bimetallic Guillaume balance and steel hairspring, technologies largely abandoned due to the difficulty of stabilizing them to modern standards.

The regulating organ features a bimetallic Guillaume-type thermo-compensated split balance, a historic solution to the impact of temperature fluctuations on precision. As temperature changes cause the balance rim and hairspring to expand or contract, the rim, constructed of two metals with different thermal coefficients, compensates by subtly flexing, adjusting the moment of inertia and stabilizing timekeeping accuracy.

As expected from Ferdinand Berthoud, every component of the movement is meticulously hand-finished, reflecting the Maison’s uncompromising dedication to traditional craftsmanship.

The watch is paired with a hand-stitched, rolled-edge alligator leather strap, available in various lengths and colors upon request, and secured with a handcrafted 18-carat white gold pin buckle.

The Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’une Montre 3 is strictly limited to 11 pieces: one unique stainless steel edition to be auctioned by Phillips in November 2025, and 10 examples in white gold, produced at the rate of two pieces per year starting in 2026. Pricing is set at CHF 850,000, equivalent to approximately AED 3,876,000.

For more information, visit the official website of Ferdinand Berthoud.