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Donzé Cadrans Adds an Artistic Touch of Enamel to the Iconic Dial Design
Launched in 2001, Ulysse Nardin’s Freak marked a groundbreaking moment in haute horlogerie, both in design and in the use of advanced materials. With no hands, no dial, and no crown, the Freak introduced a host of revolutionary innovations, most notably, it was a pioneer in the use of silicon in watchmaking. Over more than two decades and with more than 20 patents, the Freak has become an icon among collectors, embodying Ulysse Nardin’s relentless pursuit of horological innovation.
In 2019, Ulysse Nardin expanded the Freak family with the introduction of the Freak X, a more accessible interpretation of the concept. Featuring a slimmer profile and a smaller case size, the Freak X was designed for everyday wear, while preserving the collection’s avant-garde spirit. A notable evolution in this model was the inclusion of a crown for winding and time-setting.
Now, Ulysse Nardin unveils the Freak X Gold Enamel, featuring a stunning blue enamel dial crafted by Donzé Cadrans, the specialist enameling atelier acquired by Ulysse Nardin in 2012.
Blue dials have long been emblematic of Ulysse Nardin’s maritime heritage. One may recall a special hue developed in collaboration with Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, a testament to the artisans at Donzé Cadrans who continue to develop new shades tailored to each timepiece. Achieving the perfect tone requires a precise balance of pigments, deep chemical knowledge, and an intuitive understanding of color theory.
The new 43 mm case is crafted in blue PVD-coated titanium, extending from bezel to caseback, and is accented with rose gold on the flanks, crown, and lugs. This bold pairing creates an elegant visual contrast, enhanced further by sapphire crystals on both sides and a water resistance rating of 50 meters.
As with all Freak models, the balance bridge rotates once per hour, doubling as a minute hand, while the hour disc beneath, also serving as the dial completes a full rotation every 12 hours.
In this special edition, the hour disc is adorned with flinqué enamel in a rich blue hue. Unlike traditional enamel dials, the rotating disc of the Freak X presents a far greater technical challenge. It is not merely decorative, it is an active, functional component of the movement, featuring multiple screw fixtures and precise engineering requirements. Donzé Cadrans’ mastery is evident in their ability to apply layers of enamel to this complex, mobile surface with flawless precision.
The disc itself is crafted from 22-carat rose gold and first stamped with a delicate sunray motif, enhancing the dynamic visual effect of the Freak X’s rotating carousel. Only then can the enameller begin the intricate process, applying multiple layers of enamel until the perfect shade of blue is achieved.
Powering the Freak X Gold Enamel is the in-house Caliber UN-230, an automatic movement composed of 206 components. Operating at 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz), it offers a power reserve of 72 hours. In addition to hours and minutes, the movement features a flying carousel mechanism that rotates around its own axis every 60 minutes, functionally akin to a one-hour tourbillon.
The timepiece is paired with a blue alligator leather strap accented by rose gold stitching and secured by a folding clasp in blue titanium and rose gold. Limited to just 120 pieces, the Freak X Gold Enamel is priced at CHF 46,000, approximately AED 205,500.
For more information visit Ulysse Nardin official website.
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