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The iconic dress watch is back with a platinum case and smaller proportions
In an era where both independent and huge brands compete to showcase the pinnacle of modern horology, something we witnessed in abundance at Watches and Wonders 2025, Patek Philippe firmly held its ground. The brand impressed us with standout pieces like the Twenty~4 7340/1R, the Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date 6159G-001, and of course, the Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308G-001.
Yet, Patek hasn’t forgotten what has long been, and remains, the ultimate dress watch a man can wear. You already know what we’re talking about. Since its debut in 1932, the Patek Philippe Calatrava has stood as the very definition of elegant watch design. In recent years, however, the line has embraced bolder, larger iterations, leaving purists yearning for a return to classic proportions.
This year, Patek Philippe answered those calls with the Calatrava 6196P, a refined successor to the discontinued 5196, which was discontinued in 2022. Blending vintage charm with subtle modern updates, this platinum timepiece reaffirms the Calatrava’s position as the ultimate dress watch.
The 6196P features a 38mm platinum case, just a touch larger than the 5196’s 37mm, and measures a slim 9.33mm in thickness, preserving the Calatrava’s signature elegance. Polished surfaces and brushed flanks add visual depth, while a discreet diamond set into the 6 o’clock caseband follows Patek’s tradition for platinum models. A sapphire caseback offers a view of the finely finished movement, and the watch is rated to 30 meters of water resistance, plenty for daily life, unless you're planning to swim in a suit.
The rose-gilt opaline dial keeps things simple, with just the right touch of flair. Anthracite-coated white gold “obus” indices and dauphine hands introduce a contemporary contrast while preserving the Calatrava’s timeless restraint. A classic small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock maintains the watch’s signature symmetry.
Powering the 6196P is the manual-winding Calibre 30-255 PS, beating at 28,800 vph (4Hz) and delivering an impressive 65-hour power reserve. Through the exhibition caseback, you can admire traditional Côtes de Genève and hand-finished anglage that highlight Patek Philippe’s uncompromising craftsmanship.
The watch is paired with a chocolate-brown alligator strap secured by a platinum pin buckle, and is priced at CHF 40,000, approximately AED 180,000.
For more information, you can visit Patek Philippe’s official website.
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