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The Moon Phase/Selene: A Technological Triumph in Minimalist Watchmaking
Ochs und junior is the brainchild of Ludwig Oechslin; one of the most renowned names in watchmaking in the last 30 years for the exceptional pieces he made at Ulysse Nardin.
The brand is a relative newcomer in the watch sphere, having only been founded since 2006. However, they quickly skyrocketed into fame for their ingenious minimalist approach to watchmaking. They do not take pride in the complexity of the watch movement, but rather how it can do more with less.
Their atelier, an early 20th century villa built as the annex of a former factory where the owners and managers used to live, is at Rue Numa-Droz 143 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland and makes standard watches in addition to made-to-order, customizable timepieces.
The latest addition to their Ochs line is the Moon phase watch. Otherwise endearingly known as selene, it is offered in 39 and 42 mm sizes and takes simplicity in watchmaking to a whole new level.
The selene is a technological triumph; creating a moon phase complication that remains accurate for 3478.27 years before it is off by a single day. What is even more impressive is that the moon phase complication for the watch is made from only 5 individual parts overlaid on the main movement; one of which is the actual dial.
The main movement is an ETA 2824-2, running at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour and providing 38 hours of power reserve. It is automatic winding and comes with 25 jewels.
How this watch presents the moon phases is also extremely innovative. The center of the watch represents the earth while a large dot at 12 o’clock represents the sun. It is when the moon is hidden between the sun and earth at 12 O’clock that it becomes a full moon, and the new moon is represented by a dark circle at 6 o’clock.
The date is represented by a 31-hole spiral around the case spaced around the watch in 2-minute intervals as they double as seconds and minutes indicators.
The case itself is made from utilitarian grade 5 titanium, is water resistant to 100 meters thanks to the screw down crown and comes in at a slim 11 mm. wearability is further aided by tucking the end of the watch strap under the bezel in addition to shorter lugs for a closer fit. A signature Ochs Und Junior titanium buckle keeps things tidy and eliminates the need for keepers by tucking the short end underneath the long end.
While the movement of the watch is a technological marvel. The finishings of the watch are a case study. The titanium of the minimalist, two-part case comes with machining and milling traces, a conscious design choice.
In addition, and in compliance with Oechslin’s philosophy of contrast, the markers, hour and minute hands, and full moon phase are made from rhodium plated titanium overlaid on a dial of rich, matte Ochs; all covered by sapphire crystal. The second’s hand is painted in Ochs blue as well.
The moon marker has a particular finish on the uncolored titanium it is made of called “patina”. Initially, it was applied by heating at an enameling oven at 950 degrees Celsius by Ludwig Oechslin himself; until a watchmaker friend of Oechslin, Beat Haldimann, passed him a “poison vial” for patination which created a raw, unique result.
The standard “Ochs Blue” Selene watch is not limited in production, nor is it customizable. It is only available directly through the Ochs Und Junior atelier in Chaux-de-Fonds or by pre-ordering online through the Ochs Und Junior website for a price of CHF 5,500 including VAT.
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