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Louis Erard Unveils the Limited-Edition Gravée Main

Since 2021, Louis Erard has been redefining the boundaries of Métiers d’Art, from Grand Feu enamel and guilloché to wood marquetry, and soon, gold wire inlay. Now, Gravée Main opens a new chapter, paying tribute to one of the oldest crafts in watchmaking hand engraving.
Gravée Main represents a new milestone in Louis Erard’s Métiers d’Art series. This limited edition of 99 unique timepieces places hand engraving at center stage, with every metal element entirely engraved and finished by hand, a meticulous process that requires more than 50 hours of work. 

Introducing Panerai Revives Its Military Heritage with the Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218

The Florence exhibition marks the revival of a Panerai icon

Panerai’s journey from a military supplier to a maker of luxury timepieces for civilians forms a pivotal part of the brand’s history, one it has long celebrated. The year 1993 marked a major turning point, when the maison reintroduced itself to the civilian market with three key models: the Luminor ref. 5218-201/A for civilians, the Mare Nostrum 5218-301/A, and the Luminor ref. 5218-202/A, created exclusively for the Italian Navy. Today, more than three decades later, Panerai revives that legacy with the Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218, a contemporary reinterpretation of that rare military watch, faithful to the original yet enhanced with modern materials, embodying the perfect balance between military heritage and civilian success.

This release coincides with the opening of The Depths of Time exhibition at Panerai’s flagship boutique in Florence. The exhibition explores the maison’s military heritage up until 1993, showcasing archival materials never before displayed, including correspondence with the Italian Navy, technical drawings, and vintage catalogs. Following its debut in Florence, the exhibition will travel to the United States, China, and Europe.

The PAM05218 features a 44 mm stainless steel case with a black DLC coating, offering improved scratch resistance compared to the black PVD finish of the 1993 original. Naturally, the iconic crown-protecting bridge and a domed sapphire crystal complete the robust design.

On the reverse, the caseback bears the historic Officine Panerai Firenze engraving and the vintage OP logo, while ensuring 300 m of water resistance.

The dial is a special creation in line with the 1993 model. Instead of Panerai’s traditional sandwich construction, it uses a monolayer hollowed dial with engraved numerals and indices filled with Super-LumiNova. The dial’s subtle concave shape adds depth, giving the numerals a three-dimensional presence. True to the original, the words “Marina Militare” appear on the dial. For this edition, Panerai’s design team redrew both the numerals and typography to precisely reflect the style of the 1993 reference. The blackened hands are filled with a greenish-white Super-LumiNova for optimal legibility.

Inside beats the manually wound calibre P.6000, delivering a 72-hour power reserve, hence its nickname Tre Giorni (Italian for “three days”). The movement operates at 21,600 vph (3 Hz) and is equipped with a stop-seconds mechanism for precise time setting.

The PAM05218 is paired with a dark brown vintage-style calf leather strap featuring a black DLC trapezoidal buckle sewn into the strap, just as on the 1993 original. An additional black rubber strap with its own buckle is also included.

Panerai will produce 500 pieces of the Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218 annually, priced at USD 8,800 (approx. AED 32,300).

 

For more information visit Panerai’s official website. 

Technical specifications: Panerai Luminor Marina Militare
  1. Reference: PAM05218
  2. Case: stainless steel with DLC coating give it a black matte, domed sapphire crystal with AR coating; screwed steel closed caseback with Officine Panerai signature and OP logo 
  3. Diameter: 44 mm 
  4. Water resistant: 300 m
  5. Dial: Matt Black, monolayer hollowed dial with engraved numerals and indexes filled with Super-LumiNova, trizium color Super-LumiNova, Arabic numerals and hour indices, blackened hands with white Super-LumiNova
  6. Movement:  manual winding, calibre P.6000, 110 components, 19 jewels, 4.5 mm thick
  7. Power reserve: 3 days (72 hours)
  8. Frequency: 21,600 vph (3Hz)
  9. Functions: hours, minutes
  10. Bracelet / Strap: Dark brown calf leather strap with a black steel DLC trapezoidal buckle, additional black rubber strap
  11. Availability: Limited production to 500 pieces per year
  12. Price: USD 8,800 which is approximately equivalent to AED 32,300

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