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Showcasing the Brand’s Craftsmanship with a Guilloché and Grand Feu Enamel Dial
Earlier this year, Louis Vuitton reintroduced the Escale Collection as a time-only watch. Drawing inspiration from the brand’s iconic trunks and luggage, this design achieved significant success, firmly establishing Louis Vuitton and the LVMH Group as key players in haute horlogerie.
Following a major strategic shift in recent years, Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking division is evolving into a serious contender in the luxury watch market. This progression began with the Tambour collection and continues with the Escale series, reflecting a broader vision shared across all LVMH brands.
The latest Escale timepiece showcases Louis Vuitton’s dedication to historical métiers d’art techniques, resulting in a breathtaking wavy blue dial that evokes a nautical adventure. This limited-edition model features a dial adorned with guilloché engraving and Grand Feu enamel, utilizing both champlevé and flinqué techniques.
Crafting each dial required the expertise of four master artisans, each specializing in a distinct craft. The complexity of this process limits the production to just 50 pieces, each housed in a 950 platinum case.
The Escale’s case measures an elegant 39mm in diameter and 10mm in thickness, with an octagonal, LV-signed crown and a combination of polished and brushed finishes. A domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating protects the intricate dial, while riveted lugs pay homage to the corner guards of Louis Vuitton trunks. In a previous article, we discussed in detail the designs of watch cases, how they are manufactured, and the difference between screw-down lugs and integrated lugs in the case. To read the full article, click here.
An open caseback reveals the intricate mechanics within, accompanied by a rose gold plaque bearing the individual serial number of each watch.
The dial itself is a masterpiece of traditional métiers d’art craftsmanship, combining guilloché engraving and Grand Feu enamel. The base is crafted from white gold, as are the dauphine hour and minute hands, while the seconds hand is PVD-coated titanium.
The process begins with milling a gold disc to create a raised edge, forming a barrier to contain the enamel. The recessed center is then engraved using a hand-operated rose engine, creating a mesmerizing radial guilloché pattern.
Next, the enameller mixes finely ground enamel pigments with water and oil to achieve the desired translucency and brilliance. This mixture is carefully applied to the guilloché surface using the champlevé technique, filling the recessed cells. Notably, the reverse side of the dial is also enamel-coated to prevent deformation during firing.
The dial undergoes multiple firings at 800 degrees Celsius, with each stage enhancing the translucent enamel's depth and revealing the refined guilloché pattern beneath. The final step involves an innovative touch: using a precision laser to drill 12 holes through the fragile enamel for the hour markers. This technique allows for riveted indices, a rarity in watchmaking due to enamel’s inherent fragility.
Powering the Escale is the Caliber LF023, the same used in the previous Escale editions, an automatic chronometer-certified movement developed by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton in collaboration with Le Cercle des Horlogers. Operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), it offers a 50-hour power reserve and features an engraved 22K gold micro-rotor. This movement is also used in the latest Tambour editions.
The Louis Vuitton Escale Platinum is paired with a blue calfskin leather strap with black calfskin lining and a platinum pin buckle. Limited to just 50 pieces, it is priced at EUR 75,000, approximately AED 288,000.
For more information visit Louis Vuitton’s official website.
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