Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin Present the First Tourbillon Edition in Their Collaboration

A few days ago, Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin unveiled their third collaboration: the Time-Eater III, featuring the famous one-eyed monster design, an edition the two brands described as “the final bite,” which some interpreted as a hint that it would be the last in this distinctive partnership.

However, the collaboration didn’t end there. Today, the two maisons reveal a remarkable new addition: the first tourbillon regulator watch born from their joint efforts, a significant leap that takes the partnership to new heights, all while preserving the creative spirit that sparked it.

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Introducing Favre Leuba Unveils the Chief Chronograph

A modern release of the brand’s 1970 Chrono Valjoux 23, now in three colors

ByWaqt

20 hours ago

3 minutes read

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Founded in 1737, Favre Leuba is one of Switzerland’s oldest watchmakers. Known for innovations such as mechanical altimeters and deep-sea divers, the brand built its reputation on precision, resilience, and an adventurous spirit. After ceasing operations due to the quartz crisis, Favre Leuba returned at last year’s Geneva Watch Days with a renewed focus on craftsmanship, unveiling its first tourbillon watch.

Now, the brand revisits the chronograph with the Chief Chronograph, a modern reinterpretation of its 1970 Chrono Valjoux 23. This new collection blends the assertive charm of vintage design with contemporary engineering, bringing Favre Leuba’s pioneering past into the present. The Chief Chronograph features a cushion-shaped stainless steel case that stands out with its multifaceted design. At just 41mm in diameter and 14mm thick, it maintains a strong wrist presence. Multiple finishing techniques, including vertical brushing on the top surfaces and polished sides and pushers, create a dynamic play of light.

The dial is available in blue, ice blue, and black. Each version undergoes over 100 meticulous production steps. The sunray and circular-brushed base contrasts beautifully with the snailed sub-dials at 3 and 9 o’clock. A tachymeter scale runs along the inner flange. Applied indices and multi-faceted rhodium-plated hands are coated with X1-grade Super-LumiNova, emitting a blue glow in low light. A three-dimensional Favre Leuba emblem is embedded in the dial.

Powering the watch is the FLC02 calibre, an automatic column-wheel chronograph developed in collaboration with La Joux-Perret. Beating at 28,800 vph (4 Hz), it delivers a 60-hour power reserve and integrates a vertical clutch mechanism. The movement is decorated with Côtes de Genève on the bridges, blued screws, and a skeletonised 18K 4N gold-plated rotor with sunray and colimaçon finishing. The engraved monogram and “Swiss made since 1737” medallion reinforce the brand’s storied heritage.

Two strap options are available: an integrated steel bracelet with a butterfly clasp, priced at CHF 4,375 (approximately AED 20,300), or a rubber strap with a pin buckle, priced at CHF 4,300 (approximately AED 19,000).

For more information, visit Favre Leuba’s official website.

Technical Specifications: Favre Leuba Chief Chronograph

Case: Stainless steel, brushed and polished, sapphire crystal on both sides
Diameter: 41mm
Thickness: 14mm
Water Resistance: 100 meters
Dial: blue, ice blue, black, sunray and circular-brushed finish, snailed sub-dials at 3 and 9 o’clock, applied indices and rhodium-plated hands with X1-grade Super-LumiNova, tachymeter scale on inner flange, three-dimensional Favre Leuba emblem
Movement: Calibre FLC02, automatic, column-wheel chronograph developed with La Joux-Perret
Functions: Chronograph, Hours, Minutes, Small Seconds
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Bracelet/Strap: Integrated stainless steel bracelet, butterfly clasp or rubber strap with pin buckle
Availability: permanent line
Price: (bracelet) CHF 4,375 approximately AED 20,300, (strap) CHF 4,300 approximately AED 19,000