Article of the week
The New Patek Philippe Twenty~4 7340/1R Perpetual Calendar

Introduced in 1999, the Twenty~4 collection was Patek Philippe’s first dedicated line of feminine timepieces. The original model featured an Art Deco-inspired manchette (cuff) design, but in 2018, the brand unveiled the Twenty~4 Automatic, which is a round-cased iteration powered by an automatic movement. This year, Patek Philippe elevates the collection further by introducing a perpetual calendar complication, marking the collection's debut in the realm of Grand Complications.
Crafted entirely in 18K rose gold, the watch features a 36mm case with a slender profile of just 9.95mm, making it sit gracefully on the wrist. The case is meticulously finished with a combination of polished and brushed surfaces, enhancing its refined aesthetic. Two dial options are available. The Ref. 7340/1R-001 features a silvery opaline dial with a vertical satin finish, evoking the texture of shantung silk that feature irregular texture, while the Ref. 7340/1R-010 presents an olive green sunburst dial for a more contemporary appeal.

Editorial The Legacy of Vulcain, the Watchmaker of Presidents

A revival that returned Vulcain to its glory days

Many watch brands, once at the forefront of Swiss horology, have faded into obscurity since the Quartz Crisis. Some were swallowed up by larger conglomerates, their legacies transferred under corporate umbrellas. Others never recovered, their histories and craftsmanship forgotten in the rush toward cheaper, battery-powered alternatives. Yet, there are a few that, despite the odds, managed to resurface, though often without receiving the recognition they truly deserve. These brands, though not known much, still command a loyal following among watch enthusiasts who appreciate their rich heritage and innovative contributions to watchmaking.

As you can tell from the title, we will talk about Vulcain, one of Switzerland's oldest names in horology. With a history spanning over 160 years, Vulcain's journey has been shaped by triumphs, setbacks, and a remarkable reinvention. While it may not be on the tip of every watch lover's tongue, Vulcain's legacy is one of innovation, particularly with its iconic mechanical alarm watches, which earned it the moniker “The Watch for Presidents”.

Vulcain traces its origins back to 1858 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. Founded by the famous Ditisheim family, the brand initially earned acclaim for its exquisite pocket watches. By the late 19th century, Vulcain’s craftsmanship was already garnering global recognition, including accolades at the 1889 Paris World Fair and the 1893 Chicago World Fair for their sophisticated complication watches. In 1891, after the passing of Maurice Ditisheim, the company came under the leadership of his son, Ernest-Albert Ditisheim, who renamed the brand Vulcain. However, the brand's most significant milestone came decades later with a groundbreaking invention, the mechanical alarm wristwatch.

Robert Ditisheim, another member of the family, envisioned creating an effective alarm wristwatch, overcoming the limitations of earlier attempts by other manufacturers. Previous designs failed due to weak alarms and issues with timekeeping accuracy. By 1942, Robert had developed a prototype equipped with the Caliber 120, a manually wound movement featuring two separate barrels, one for the timekeeping and another dedicated to the alarm function. This innovation ensured the alarm’s operation did not disrupt the watch’s accuracy.

Achieving a sufficiently loud alarm remained a challenge until the French physicist Paul Langevin suggested mimicking the resonating sound of a cricket. After years of refinement, Vulcain introduced a patented design in 1947. The resulting sound was both loud and distinctive, amplified by a double perforated case back, clearly resembling a cricket's call. And so, the Cricket was born.

The Cricket’s success was swift, its reputation soared further in 1953 when the U.S. President Harry S. Truman received a 14K gold Cricket as a gift. Vulcain’s watches soon became associated with American presidents, earning the moniker “The Watch for Presidents”, as many other presidents owned at least one. 

Vulcain expanded its offerings with notable models like the Cricket Nautical in 1961, an iconic  diver’s watch capable of emitting alarms underwater. However, the brand faced significant challenges during the quartz crisis. Vulcain’s decision to remain loyal to mechanical movements, coupled with changes to the original Caliber 120, led to financial issues and to decline sales. By the end of the decade, the company ceased operations.

The brand was revived in the early 2000s, bringing back various historical models that had defined its legacy. Today, Vulcain continues to celebrate its rich heritage with collections like the '50s-inspired Monopusher Heritage, the sporty Chronograph 1970s, and of course, the iconic Cricket Nautical. The brand produces some of the most exceptional timepieces in the industry, blending modern technology with traditional watchmaking techniques to create watches that are both innovative and timeless.


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